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SEED POTATOES
CHITTING (Sprouting Process) It is very important that your tubers are kept in a frost free area. Remove them immediately from their nets, spread them out in a cool, well-ventilated place prior to sprouting (called'chitting'). All seed potatoes, particularly Earliest and Second Earlies, can benefit from 'chitting' and the formation of strong 'chits' over several weeks gives faster growth when planted out and heavier crops. Use seed trays, shallow boxes or empty egg cartons to 'chit' your potatoes. You will notice that the immature 'chits' are all at one end(called the rose end). Place the rose end upwards. Keep in a cool, but frost-free place in natural light. Sturdy 'chits' will form which should attain 25mm (1 in.) in length. PLANTING Potatoes grow best in rich soil containing plenty of well-rotted manure or compost (do not use fresh compost to minimise keeled slug problems) and do not lime the soil to minimise scab blemishes on developing Tubers. Planting times are not critical and are dependant on weather, soil conditions, and regional variations but below is a general guide. Use our specially blended, high potash Potato Fertiliser when planting. PLANTING GUIDE
First Earlies
Second Earlies
Early Main Crop
Late Main Crop
Potato Fertiliser Concerning application of the 3kg bag of pelleted, high potash fertiliser. This should be sufficient to plant 60 tubers, using 50g (just under 2oz) per tuber. Its application is a matter of personal choice, and to a certain extent depends on the condition of your soil. You can incorporate 50g in each individual planting hole(as with any fertiliser it should not be in immediate contact with the tuber to avoid scorching), or you can incorporate 25g when planting and another 25g when first earthing up. If you plant in a trench instead of dibbing or using a trowel, then you can scatter the pellets along the trench, or leave until you earth up. Potatoes grow best in slightly acidic soils, which can be seasonally created by applying sulphur prill to the top of the potato ridge after planting. Applying sulphur maximizes the yield and deters skin blemishes like Common Scab. AftercareMost importantly protect emerging shoots from any frosts by carefully drawing soil over the shoots. Frost will blacken the shoots and delay production severely. First and Second Earlies particularly require plenty of water during prolonged dry weather especially when tubers are starting to form. Earth up regularly as the plants develop. HarvestingStart to harvest First Earlies as 'new potatoes' when plants commence flowering, although not all varieties freely flower or flower over an extended period. Therefore, a more reliable method is the number of weeks from date of planting. As a guideline, allow 10 weeks from planting for First Earlies, 13 weeks for Second Earlies, 15 weeks for Early Maincrops and 20 weeks for Late Maincrops. Lifting times will also depend on the growing season, weather conditions at harvest time and the size of tuber you want. Tubers will generally become larger the longer their growing period. Maincrop varieties are usually left for at least two weeks after the leaves and haulms (stems) have Withered to allow the skins to set. StoringFor storing varieties, leave the tubers on the soil surface for a few hours to dry and cure the skin before storing in Hessian sacks or in paper in a dark, cool but frost free place. Avoid polythene as potatoes will sweat and rot.
VARIETIES AVAILABLE AT NEWHALL GARDEN CENTRE.
FIRST EARLIES SALAD CROP
Epicure: Rocket: Pentland Javelin: Foremost. Jersey Royal
SECOND EARLY MAIN CROP
Kestrel: Nadine: Estima King Edward: Cara: Desiree
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GARDEN TIPS
